A lot of tourists who fly into Faro airport move on to other resorts along the coast rather than stay in Faro city itself. My partner and I certainly did when we visited Tavira many years ago! Since Faro is the capital of southern Portugal’s Algarve region, we decided to pay a visit this time. What we discovered was an underrated city. There’s certainly more to Faro than just being the gateway to the Algarve, with so much history and traditional Portuguese charm. 

Faro is about 15 miles from our hotel at Pestana Vila Sol in Vilamoura. Our Uber trip cost only around €14. My eyes were wide open as soon as we were dropped off at the car park near the harbour! 

It was an overcast morning as Storm Ciaran skirted past on its way to wreak havoc in the UK! The sun managed to peep through the clouds every now and then. This contributed to the moody and almost eerie atmosphere in some photos, especially when the sun appeared behind buildings! 

Faro Marina (Doca de Faro) 

The marina is very different from that of Vilamoura. It’s a working harbour of small boats, mostly for water activities and excursions to popular destinations nearby, particularly the islands in Ria Formosa. 

Jardim Manuel Bivar

This is the city’s pedestrianised areas of shaded gardens, wide avenues alongside the city’s harbour lined with restaurants and cafés. There’re some magnificent buildings such as these.

,

Igreja da Misericordia de Faro

Also on Jardim Manuel Bivar is Igreja da Misericordia de Faro. This 16th-century church is just across the road from the arch that opens to the Old Town. The interior houses a small museum of sacred art.

Arco da Vila

Arco da Vila is the gateway to the Old Town (Cidade Velha) of cobble-stoned lanes. This striking 19th-century gate was part of the original Moorish wall and is a historic landmark in its own right

inside the Old Town (Cidade Velha)

A gentle incline to the top of the narrow lanes opens up to a large charming tree-lined square (Largo da Sé). It‘s dominated by the impressive cathedral and other palatial buildings, including the Bishop’s Palace and Town Hall

Câmara Municipal de Faro

This late 19th century building blends in well with older ones in Faro Old Town

Faro Cathedral 

Faro Cathedral was built in 1249 over the remnants of a Roman temple, a church and then a Moorish mosque. It was completed in 1251.

Arco de Repouso (Gate of Rest)

This medieval gate is an exit from the Old Town. It’s associated with the conquest of Faro by Christians led by Afonso III in 1249.

It’s said that after taking Faro from the Moors, Afonso III rested and heard Mass nearby. The thick walls around the gate are some of the oldest sections. The conquest is commemorated by 2 striking azulejos (tiles) near the gate. It’s dated 1497 but it’s not clear if that was when the tiles were laid.

“Eu Alfonso, por graça de Deus Rei de Portugal…dou e concedo-vos a vós, povoadores de Santa Maria de Faro presentes e futuros, o foral, os usos e os costumes da cidade de Lisboa.. 1497”

(“I Alfonso, by the grace of God King of Portugal…I give and grant to you, present and future inhabitants of Santa Maria de Faro, the charter, the uses and customs of the city of Lisbon.. 1497)

“E as gentes do mestre Trouxeram lego muita lenha e outros materiais as portas da vila para com o fogo as queimarem, e entrarem por elas…” (And the people of the master brought a lot of firewood and other materials to the doors of the village, with the fire burned them, and entered them)

Very interesting stuff!

Palácio Belmarço (Belmarço Palace)

On our exit from the Old Town we came across this rather striking building – Palácio Belmarço (Belmarço Palace). It was built in 1912 by a rich merchant, Manuel de Jesus Belmarço. I believe it’s now the business headquarters of an entrepreneur.

Its neighbours include the stork that built its nest on the top and the Brazilian Consulate, another imposing building, across the square

Igreja do Carmo & Capela dos Ossos

The exquisite Carmo Church is reputed to be one of the most beautiful of Algarve with interior of delicate gilt carvings. However, being of a squeamish nature, I was contented to admire it from the outside rather than to see the walls of the chapel covered with human skulls and bones inside!

Rua de Santo António

After the church we headed back to town via Rua de Santo António, a beautiful shopping hub in the heart of the Old Old Town with tiled pedestrian streets that’re unmistakably Portuguese. It being Sunday the shops were closed, to my partner’s delight!

Faro turned out to be a great place for a day trip – so much history and so much to do and see! It has the Portuguese charms of Loulé and the tourist vibes of Albufeira.

Even on Sunday there’re always places for me to buy a magnet to add to my collection… not to mention photo opportunities!