How to get from Tallinn to Riga?🤔

I arranged to meet up with my niece in Tallinn in May 2018 to travel together to Riga. The next step was to decide what mode of transport to use.

By plane? 👎🏻It would take about an hour in the air, but there’s the rigmarole of waiting around for check-in, security and passport checks, boarding and landing, the total time could easily be at least 3 hours. And it could cost a lot more. So no!

By train?👎🏻 What put me off was that there’s no direct train between the two cities and it’s necessary to change at Valga near the Latvian border. It would take between 4.5 and 5.5 hours to get to Valga from Tallinn, and then at least another 3 hours from Valga to Riga. Without even checking the fares, any thought of travelling by train was quickly abandoned!

By bus? 👍🏻 Definitely! Both my niece and I opted for the direct bus services by Lux Express between Tallinn and Riga. It would take around 4.5 hours. We booked separately in advance – she in Hong Kong, I in England, on the same bus! The wonder of modern communications!!

It cost me €12 from Tallinn to Riga and €14 on the return trip. 

Lux Express👍🏻

The Lux Express bus that I travelled on both ways was spacious with ample legroom, USB and continental charging points, free WiFi, a very clean toilet and machine for free coffee. The driver was very steady.

With my noise-cancelling earphones playing my favourite music and the WiFi keeping me in touch with the world, the distance of over 300 km and 4.30 hours just melted away! 

Staying at the heart of Riga 

The bus station was right by the canal just opposite the Central Market. It was just a walk of 15 minutes to the Old Town where I booked a 2-bedroomed apartment with Heart of Riga Apartment for 2 nights for myself and my niece.

In terms of location it well exceeded my expectation! It’s right in the heart of Riga Old Town within a walk of less than 5 minutes to St Peter’s Church and Livu Square was at the bottom of the street 

The apartment on the 2nd floor of an impressive old building was massive with a large sitting and dining area (intended for 6 people, I think). With a bedroom and bathroom at each end of the apartment, we really enjoyed our own space! As for value for money, it scored 10/10 any day! 

St Peter’s Church

There was so much to see in the Old Town of Riga I was like a child in a fun fair – what to see first!? So we started with St Peter’s Church which was near the apartment. However we were too late for the tower which was closed at 16.00, but then there’re the next 2 days!

Behind the church there’s a pretty little street with a colourful display of flowers and charming restored buildings and an old church

St. James’s / St Jacob’s Cathedral 

It took me a while to realise that St. James’s Cathedral and  St Jacob’s Cathedral are the same building with the same address !! Apparently Jacob is the Old Testament name for James.

House of the Blackheads 

This amazing building with an opulent and intricate façade owes its pristine appearance to the reconstruction in 1990’s. The original structure was built in the 14th century, left in ruins by WW2 bombing and demolished in 1948.

It’s situated in a charming square facing the restored City Hall, with the statue of Roland, the Patron Saint of Riga occupying the pride of place in the middle

The City Hall

Dome Square (Doma Laukums)

The large and lovely square is dominated Dome Cathedral and colourful buildings, such as the stately building of the Latvian Radio and Television Committee.

The Three Brothers 

It’s an interesting and the oldest complex of dwelling houses in Riga, 3 different styles from 3 different eras between the 15th and late 17th century. 

The oldest is the one on the right, the middle one was built 1646 and the newest is the narrow one on the left. The complex now houses Latvian Museum of Architecture on the ground floor

Riga Parliament & Castle and the lovely precinct 

Powder Tower and the row of lovely restaurants in its shadows

The Freedom Monument & Square

The monument is a memorial honouring soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence between 1918 and 1920

The Nativity of Christ Cathedral 

If the Cathedral looks similar to Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Tallinn it’s because they are both Orthodox cathedrals

Rundāle Palace

How to get to Rundāle Palace from Riga by bus

Rundāle Palace is about 80 km from Riga. It’s on my must-see list but the cheapest price quoted for an organised 1/2 day tour was €85 per person.  I popped into the Tourist Information at Livu Square to check out the possibility of getting there by public transport and was given this very useful bus timetable 

My niece and I decided to go for the 7.30 bus to arrive at Rundāle at 9.16. From the bus stop we followed the brown sign and got to the palace in 15 minutes, well before the opening time at 10.00.

We certainly did not begrudge the early start as we had the place to ourselves and could take photos unfettered before anyone else arrived!

The grounds and gardens

The interiors of Rundāle Palace

If the exteriors and gardens of the palace were impressive, the interiors were absolutely breath-taking! 

We had plenty of time to look around Rundāle before catching the 13.29 bus arriving at Bauska at 13.45 for a bit of lunch before catching the 14.20 bus back to Riga at 15.40, in good time to visit the Central Market, right next to the bus station.

Our half day excursion to Rundāle Palace cost €18.90 in total – entrance fee of €11 plus return bus fares of €7.90. Result!!👍🏻

Central Market 

It’s a UNESCO Heritage Site in its own right. It’s a huge place selling everything inside and out.

They love their flowers here in Riga – real or artificial! Spot the difference! (The artificial flowers are in the small photo!)

A Bird’s eyes view is a must to appreciate Riga’s  colourful domes & spires

 We went up on both The Observation Deck of Latvian Academy of Science and St Peter’s Church Tower for different perspectives 

The Observation Deck of Latvian Academy of Science

This iconic building looked even more impressive against the bright blue sky in the late afternoon sunshine. The Observation Deck on Floor 17 was reached by a lift up to floor 15 so there were only a few flights of stairs to negotiate.

The entrance fee was €5 but the best part was that it stayed open until 22.00! 

The 360-degree views from the top were great but something was missing –  the colourful skylines for which Riga is famous …

St Peter’s Church Tower

So the next day before leaving Riga I had to go up to St Peter’s Church Tower. There were only a few flights of steps to reach the lift to get to the top.

I gladly paid the entry fee of €9 for the spectacular views! On the basis that I would do this only once, it was so worth it as borne out by the photos!!

My final words on Riga

Riga is such a beautiful city and it’s so cheap to eat well in the Old Town.  The local dishes were scrumptious and well presented.

The pike cost €13 and the “sparkling duck” marinated in champagne so big that I couldn’t finish cost only €18 (A couple of year ago at Reykjavik just a duck’s leg cost €37 😱!) 

And I absolutely love this handbag just outside the supermarket at the small centre near the apartment!!

Finally – got the fridge magnet. And the photos. Job done!